The Review section is also where you can send us your own story of places that you have been to and visited.
Review of the Aquadiver Water Park in Playa D’Aro.
Extensive, informative interview with an English woman who re-located to Girona, Spainwith her young family.
This Review below, of Vall De Nuria was sent in by Debra Foremski who lives in Girona. (See our Video’s page for a short clip of going up on the train).
The most perfect day trip for the middle of the Summer
We drove from Girona towards Olot and on to Ripolles. You go through the short tunnels that cut right through the mountain, which are a unique feature of Europe. When you come to Ripolles you take the right hand lane for the most direct route to the lovely town of Ripoles. However, if you have some time, take the slightly longer route and go left for Ripolles.
This takes you on a spectacular windy drive on a very well built road up and down the mountains with the most stunning views (well, for the passengers that is – highly recommend that the driver remains concentrated and not be too distracted!). The whole route is very green with cascading pine forests and occasional mountain houses nestled above pretty valleys. One of the kids swore she saw an eagle on the way.
From Ripolles, head for Nuria. Signs at this stage are lacking but drive through Ripolles and look for Ribes de Freser which is a place with a small community. A few bars, restaurants (none of which were particularly notable). There are a few pretty houses but very much a typical mountain town. When we got there, the signs for the station Ribes-Vila were a little confusing.
We parked nearby and followed signs on foot the short way to the station.
The little train stations on route are truly exquisite. Very old fashioned and quaint. The ticket office staff speak (if you need to) English and are very helpful. Considering the price of a return ticket from Girona to Barcelona, the ticket price for two adults and two kids was quite steep (60€) but you are given information on walks, hotel facilities and activities in the resort. Plus, the mountain train is very modern and efficient. There are also special offers to stay in the resort which include the price of the train fare.
Up we went on a magical journey of fantastic vistas. As you climbed higher in the air conditioned carriages, Ribes de Freser became a tiny toy town below. Wonderful mountains, beautiful natural waterfalls, rock pools, flora and fauna opens up for you on your journey upwards.
Vall de Nuria is heralded by a whistle blow as the train arrives with a perfect view of the hotel, church and facilities in a little enclosed valley. This is primarily a winter resort but is also a welcoming alpine summer retreat. The beautiful lake is in front of the holiday complex built around an old but well preserved church. On a Summer visit you could do everything there is to offer within a day. As one of the kids observed, it was like Disney land but real.
As you hop off the train you easily find yourself in the hotel complex with displays and three, tiny museums dedicated to skiing, the natural environment and the mechanics of the lifts and cable cars. There is also the typical souvenir shop and a another selling artisan produce. There are a number of different restaurants dotted around, a dispensary, cash-point and information desk.
There are hotel rooms and apartments but it would hardly be self-catering as the facilities available are very limited (unless you came up on the train carrying your supplies) so you would be looking at eating in one of the on-sight venues.
From the information desk you can book mini-golf, horse-riding, kayaking, rowing boats and archery. There is one cable car service running in Summer.
Everything is so clean, tidy and well ordered. The staff (including the train drivers and conductors) wear the same distinctive maroon polo shirts.
You can visit a little reformed chapel and fill up your water bottle from the mountain water font.
We had a picnic on tables and benches by some swings and slides. It was next to a babbling brook where the children kicked off their shoes, rolled up their trousers and paddled on the rocks. They chased butterflies, looked for shiny stones and tried to catch tiddlers.
There is a childrens’ play area where they can slide down a dry slope in rubber rings. A tip is to go at 6pm where you pay a reduced cost for 45 minutes which is more than enough time as the facilities are rather limited.
If you are lucky you may see birds of prey or a mountain goat. Cows with bells graze on the hillside under towering rock faces.
The chair lifts (not operating in Summer) and gentle slopes wait silently in anticipation of the winter season. There is a really tiny farm area where we saw farm birds, donkeys and a mountain dog tethered.
A special, delightful feature was the donkey and pony rides for small children. You book at the information desk at the hotel and take your ticket to get your pony.
It was just so lovely for the kids as our youngest (she was fitted with a riding hat) was given her own pony and led off by our nine year old. Although it is meant to be under adult supervision (i.e., a parent) our nine year old is familiar with horses so they gave her the rope and let her lead the way. So, our two kids disappeared off together in charge of the little pony between them and we sat on a bench by the lake having a beer! Amazing! This was OK until the pony decided to stop and have a munch on the grass, dug his heels and not move any further.
Despite my kids cajoling they couldn’t shift him until one of the stable girls came to their rescue! The stable girl kindly changed the first pony for a more amenable one who was much more responsive. So, when our children were finished with the ride they took it back to the stable, in their own time and only when they had had enough!
We wanted to take the half-hour mountain ride on horses with a guide but it was booked up for the day, so do this when you first arrive. If we go again we will try and pre-book it. The horse/pony rides are not available in the winter. The animals all looked well treated and the staff were very caring and respectful.
In the winter it is also great for kids, so we are told. There is igloo building, nursery slopes with instructors (in Catalan, Spanish and English), toboggans and much more.
The last train down the mountain leaves at 19.20. It had been so nice to escape the hot weather in Girona. We all wished we had booked up for a couple days of respite from the heat. By the evening it was noticeably cooler but all day had been the most desirable and perfect climate. Sunny, warm with a gentle, cooling breeze. The kids loved it and were not ready to go home. We didn’t do everything because it’s always nice to leave something else to do if you want come back. Perhaps next summer it would be so good to stay up in the gorgeous fresh air for a couple of days.
A superb, uplifting and memorable day was had by us all.
It is such a perfect little resort for young families that we hope to return both in the Winter and in the Summer. Highly recommended and well worth going. *****
Thanks Debra, I’ve heard about this place and wondered what it was like, you’ve given us a great insight into this special place! Editor
This review of the Aquadiver Water Park in Playa D’Aro was sent in by Debra who lives in Girona.
Aquadiver Water Park, Plaja d’Aro, Girona.
Voted by one of the best days out by our seven and nine year old. Entry is expensive – check out their website (www.aquadiver.com) but it was very clean, safe and with well managed facilities when we were there in August. It’s a little cheaper in the afternoons after 2pm or 3pm according to the month you go.
Lots of staff and life guards around. The grounds are well kept and very attractive. There are cool shady areas under the pine trees and grassy banks for sunbathing. My wife is not very keen on the idea of Aquaparks but actually had a really good time there and the kids had a blast.
Plenty of parking and noticed a number of people came by coach, minibus and taxis. Sometimes the queue to pay can be long and even if you buy a season ticket, you still have to queue to get in.
There are a number of fast food outlets and bars serving reasonably priced fare. There are plenty of spaces to have a picnic. There are sunbeds for hire at 3 euros each which I think should be free considering the price to get in.
The water is chlorinated and It may be fresh or desalinated, couldn’t be sure but it was not stinging and salty like some water parks.
There are plenty of rides and it was not overly busy. The expected wait for the longest ride, Splash Mountain (where you take little rubber dinghies – two people go together or in our case, one adult and one child) was up to 90 minutes but I never saw anyone waiting more than an hour (and this was August, remember).
Though it looks really scary and was very thrilling, my wife was able to cope with it and actually enjoyed it (even though she had reservations as she lined up!).
If you are a nervous about the water slides, my wife recommends the white and the red one called Zig Zag for a not too topsy turvy ride down! If you want to go for something quite terrifying you can try the Water Fall, Pistes Toves and Kamikazes for a really exciting trip! The rapids with giant rubber rings was relatively tame but still fairly fast.
There are plenty of other rides to choose from but not as many as some other parks but more enough for those in our group of family and friends.
There are slides and one pool for very young kids and a baby pool. There is also a large pool for a good swim that switches on the wave machine every 20 minutes from 3pm. Everyone loved that but recommend you stay in the middle towards the ‘beach end’ if you have little ones when it comes on. Two Jacuzzis and another large pool with a short green tube ride which looked very fast but many bigger kids were lining up to have a go.
Don’t take any valuables, just a little money or have somewhere in your shorts to keep your credit card and you can all leave your towels & stuff and go off together. We did and everything was fine. Use plenty of water proof sunblock as lining up for rides and all that water creates lots of reflection. You don’t notice how quickly you are burning as you are obviously wet and cool.
We all came back very sun-kissed!
Sounds like a great place for a family day-out and a place that everyone can enjoy. Pass the sun cream! Editor
What is your name, age and where do you live?
My name is Debra, I’m 48 years old and I live with my family in La Devesa in the elegant city of Girona.
What nationality are you and your partner?
We have British passports. My husband is first generation Polish (in which he is fluent) and I am half English and half Irish. We were both born, raised & educated in London where we also later worked. After we married we moved to bring up our young family in the Suffolk countryside for about nine years before we came to live in Cataluyna.
How many children do you have and what are their names and ages?
We have two children aged 8 and 10 years.
Do you work and if so what to you do?
Every day, in the afternoons, I teach English to little ones from about 15 months up to around 10 years old for a private academy. I am also a qualified complementary therapist and want to start doing this in Girona as it is a very alternative city (perhaps, initially from home). I had a very successful little practice back in England. Following a posting I saw on the Mum Abroad forum, I have also recently got involved with Usborne English books for children as I think there is a real need for this here. Not just for English speaking children but also all my little English language learners. I am interested in lots of different things and always seem to have one project or another on the go. Plus, of course, I’m a busy wife, mummy and home maker!
What was your experience of having a baby in Spain? (if relevant)
Both our kids were born in the UK.
What was your experience of relocating to Spain with children? (if relevant)
Our experience of totally relocating our whole family lock, stock and barrel to another country? A complete breeze! No, of course it wasn’t! Not at all!! It was exhausting, stressful and bewildering. Plus all the initial red-tape and necessary procedures to become residents was extremely frustrating. Nevertheless, I remember how positive and excited we were looking forward to our new life. I also recall the lovely experience of buying a one-way ticket and sitting on the plane with all those holiday makers, very smugly, knowing we would not be making a return trip for some time.
The children were very prepared and aware of what was happening for at least a couple of years before we moved. I used to play Spanish CDs and videos for them in the UK and us parents had been trying to learn Spanish for some years.
How well integrated would you say you and your children are?
Well, because we had done our research and came out on reconnaissance a few times we had made a few friends and contacts who were able to help smooth the process when we eventually arrived. We actually went to live in the same apartment we had previously rented as a holiday let, so the children were familiar with their new home and neighbourhood. We have sinced moved to an another place, nearby, that has more space for us all.
Because I teach in the same area in which we live, many of the parents and children are my neighbours and we have got to know them well. It is rare occasion when I step out of my door and don’t exchange a quick chat, friendly wave across the street or a simple smile of recognition. It’s nice to be part of the community and sometimes I actually feel like a local so it seems so much like home to us already.
The kindness we have been shown (initially, mostly by the Catalans) has been both heart-warming and generous. In my opinion and I guess I could be accused of generalizing, Catalans are quite reserved, private people and different in their attitudes to the rest of Spain. But a good Catalan friend is steadfast, supportive and genuine.
The children initially had trouble connecting with their school friends because they were unable to speak Catalan (although they do not have the same inhibitions about not speaking the same language as us grown-ups!). However, they converse fluently and confidently now. We also have our ever-expanding international network of English speaking families who live here.
What language do you speak to your children?
We speak English at home despite my attempts to get the children to teach me Catalan!
What is your impression of childcare and education where you live?
Apart from a little help from our canguro (child-minder) and occasional baby-sitters my husband and I share the child care between us and we all tend to do most things together. My girls are now used to socialising politely and sitting nicely in restaurants (well, most of the time, anyway!).
As far as my impressions of education go, well, I naturally can’t help making comparisons to primary schools in the Britain. I now realise how privileged and fortunate parents are in the UK where kids can turn up at the school gate without even a pencil! Here it is very different. Everything your child needs to use in school has to be paid for by the parents. Text books etc. are not generally recycled and have to be bought, sometimes new ones every term.
We have even been charged for the photocopies the teacher has given the children! Generally, the teachers are kind, helpful, committed and very good. It appears very academically based. music and languages are begun earlier here. Subjects such as active science (where the children participate in simple experiments), practical art and international history/geography are not a big part of the curriculum in primary education. I notice far more men teach in primary schools than they do in the UK.
In my experience, I think the teachers here could do with more resources and updated equipment (such as interactive whiteboards and state of the art IT for instance) than is currently available to them. Some school buildings look more like office blocks than educational establishments for the young and the playgrounds facilities could be improved.
As one of my children commented when we went to look at one school ”…it looks as welcoming as a prison”.
They don’t seem to be into fund-raising here to buy the equipment they need and volunteer parent helpers (to assist with reading and other activities etc.) is unheard of and unwelcomed. AMPA (sort of PTA) don’t seem to have much influence.
What school do your children go to?
A small Privat Concertat (means part-pay) which are very popular here in Girona. However, the state schools are superb, often better sometimes.
Why did you choose this school and are you happy with your choice?
We send our children there simply because my husband got a job teaching English part-time at the school and we thought it would be a nice way to ease and settle them into a new school system. They wanted to be near their Daddy!
It’s not my school of choice and I have my reasons but on balance it’s working out as there are other factors which remain positive. The class sizes are small which is important. My children have, albeit temporarily, special needs due to the fact their first tongue is not Catalan or Spanish.
As they are still relatively the new kids on the block there is a danger they could get left behind/overlooked in a larger class. It’s a little faraway from our home but at least I get to wave them all off in the morning then go and have a blissfully peaceful cup of tea! It makes a nice change from all those years on school-run duty!
Where you live, how good are the facilities for children (shops, restaurants, activities etc)?
Girona is a relatively safe, quiet and beautiful place to live – very family orientated with most of the facilities you could wish for. It does not have the cool, groovy appeal of Barcelona and most young adults want to leave town to go and live there eventually. I do envy the choice of opportunities there are in Barcelona but Girona is a small city, more like a village really.
There are lots of activities for kids and its just a case of making sure you monitor what events are coming up, where and when. Sometimes these things start too late even if they are geared towards children. There are great walks, museums and cycling is easy. Outdoor swimming pools in the summer and an ice rink around Christmas time. It’s really neat to be able to set off for the beach late in the afternoon and know you will still have a few hours of sun, sea and sand or head for the hills to ski for a great day out in the winter.
Like the rest of the country, children are generally welcome in the numerous bars/ restaurants/shops/etc. The tolerance, respect and patience shown to young families is outstanding and what attracted us in the first place. English speaking events are centred around get togethers with other English speaking families.
What do you think are the main advantages and disadvantages of being a parent from the International Community in your town?
The main advantage is feeling you have given your children a wonderful lifestyle and the chances that you never had yourself. You are bringing them up as Children of Europe. They will grow with an understanding of cultural diversity and be at least fluently tri-lingual in English, Catalan and Spanish. Even if my kids never go to university, growing up here means they already have a unique niche carved out for them and all the opportunities it affords.
Disadvantages seem petty in comparison but I have a few. One is not being able to help much with homework. Also, being unable to chat fluently with other mummies and people we come across. There are a lot of interesting folks out there who I would love to get to know better but my language skills defeat me. My employment opportunities are also limited until I can master either Spanish or Catalan.
I’ve finally bitten the bullet and have started taking Catalan lessons. After all, in a few years time, my children will be making arrangements with their boyfriends on the telephone and I want to be able to listen in and understand what is going on!
There are many other advantages and disadvantages but then you wouldn’t have the space for me to whittle on in this interview.
Is there anything you think would improve children´s lives?
Seriously, I believe shorter schools days and less homework. I don’t think the long school days are beneficial. No one in the world comments on just how intelligent/smart/spectacularly academic Spanish children are so why is it so unnecessarily stressful? The system as it stands now, with all it’s pressure on the children just does not work. I think finishing at 5pm is too late for primary school age.
There seems to be tons of homework to be completed every night. We pay a lovely, Catalan student who comes to help us as Mummy and Daddy can’t cope with all the Catalan! We will do this until we feel the girls are up to speed with writing and reading the language. I see a lot of children being whizzed around straight after school for activities such as sports, music, dance and English lessons and I wonder how they also get time to fit in supper, homework and relaxing with their families before bedtime.
My kids will tell you their life would improve by being allowed to have packed lunches even though the school dinners are yummy! Perhaps we ought to interview the older children on their experiences and opinions!
What advice would you give for anyone having a baby or thinking of relocating to Costa Brava with children?
Firstly, brace yourself, tighten your seatbelts/resolve and be prepared for a rocky ride. It’s not easy no matter how positive and determined you feel.
The health services are wonderful. I speak from well-qualified experience as I’m a trained nurse and have also been a patient here so I can tell you, with hesitation, that the medical services are absolutely excellent and superior to what I have experienced in my own country. My friends who have had their babies here have nothing but positive reports to tell me. So, if you having your baby here be comfortably reassured.
Regarding relocation, obviously do your research and more research. Talk to your children about all the positive reasons why you are moving. Point out all the lovely things there are for them to do when they come here. Come many times before you make the move.
Reach out to people (it’s so easy here if you have kids), talk to them, make contacts and try to help your children make friends in your chosen destination. Even a small piece of advice can go a long way or a gentle jolt in the right direction.
Outside of Barcelona, Catalan is the language of communication. If you come to live in Girona or thereabouts, somehow, someway try and find out more about the Catalan language (which is difficult in the UK). Exposing your kids to the sounds of the language may help them acclimatize.
How ignorant were we when we first came here on holiday in 2001 (when the spell was cast) and thought that the only reason we couldn’t understand anyone was because our Spanish was not good enough, when actually they were speaking Catalan!
I went home to England and told everyone that that the Catalans were under the impression that we were French because they said ‘Merci’ to us all the time! We do get by with our very functional Spanish and I still think you need to speak it here as well.
Where you live what couldn´t you live without?
An income, thankfully we have one but we both work very hard and it’s a juggling act sometimes making ends meet. It’s not a cheap place to live.
Where you live what could you live without?
Silly things really…
Having to get used to driving left-hand cars on the other side of the road!
Getting flustered when I answer the ‘phone and at other times because I can’t understand what they are saying !
The sheer effort of dealing with bureaucracy.
Finally, a comment I would like to make and think all us international parents should consider. This all sounds very noble but when you think about it, we have brought our precious, beautiful children to this wonderful country, they are our gift and its future.
Wow! You certainly have come a long way in such a short space of time, thanks for sharing your experiences with us. I’m sure it will be very useful for other mums with young kids. Editor
Often referred to as La Dansa de la Mort or the dance of the dead, and always held on Thursday’s the day before Easter Good Friday.
I’d heard about this from some friends who said it was unmissable, so this year we made a determined effort to see it. Verges is about a half hour drive from Girona, going due east, on the way to coast. You’ll pass very near to it if you go to places like Estartit and L’Escala.
The procession starts well late, at around 10pm for the first part. As we had left early we took a slight detour and popped into nearby Pals for a refreshment stop. When we got to Verges at about 10-ish parking the car was getting hard, but we managed to find a space. There’s a theatrical-type bit at the start which requires a ticket and for those in the know is best bought in advance. The leaflet I’d picked up in Girona’s tourist office had the info, but I had missed seeing it.
But on seeing the sold out signs and tickets at about 15 € each I thought we’d skip that bit.
